[KS] Hats in Korea: Two Doctoral Dissertations in English

Frank Joseph Shulman fshulman at umd.edu
Sun Apr 19 16:15:37 EDT 2015

Perhaps the following will be of some interest as a follow-up to the discussion by Hyung Pai et al. about hats in Korea.  (Please note that I am not personally aware of any dissertations that deal in some way with Percival Lowell.)  The entries are taken from "A Century of Doctoral Dsisertations on Korea, 1903-2004: An Annotated Bibliography of Studies in Western Languages", compiled, annotated and edited by Frank Joseph Shulman.

I hope that this will be helpful in some way.


April 19, 2015

Frank Joseph Shulman
Bibliographer, Editor and Consultant for Reference Publications in Asian Studies
9225 Limestone Place
College Park, Maryland 20740-3943 (U.S.A.)
E-mail: fshulman at umd.edu


KIM, Jin-Goo  (1936- ).  
    Korean Costume: An Historical Analysis.  University of Wisconsin at Madison [United States], 1977 (Ph.D. in Textiles and Clothing).  Chairperson-Major Adviser: Mary Ellen Roach Higgins.  xviii, 259, 1p.  DAI [Dissertation Abstracts International] 38, no.12 (June 1978): 7183-84-A; UMI [University Microfilms International/ProQuest order number] 7804863.  
    Kim, a graduate of Ewha Woman's University in Seoul (B.S., 1958) and the University of Tennessee at Knoxville (M.S. in Textiles and Clothing, 1970), described and analyzed the forms of costume (hats, headdresses, coats, jackets, robes, undergarments, trousers, skirts, shoes, boots and ornaments), its functions, and the factors affecting the forms and the functions of costume throughout Korea from the prehistoric period to the 1970s. Her dissertation includes information about the protective and communicative functions of clothing, the impact of geographical conditions and governmental regulations on costume, the types of material (cotton, hemp, ramie, silk, leather) out of which clothing was fashioned, the influences on costume by the Scytho-Siberian people and the Chinese, and the continuity of indigenous forms of costume over the centuries. Complementing Kim's analysis are 118 black and white drawings and photographs of a wide range of items of dress worn by men and women; they are based in large part on her field work in South Korea in 1973.
    Table of Contents: 1. Introduction. 2. Analytical System. 3. Background for Understanding Korean Costume. 4. The Prehistoric Period. 5. The Three Kingdoms Period. 6. The Unified Silla. 7. The Koryo Period. 8. The Yi Period. 9. Twentieth Century Period of Transition. 10. Summary. 118 figures. 6 tables. Bibliography: pp.234-48.
    Master's thesis: "Selected Clothing Behaviors, Interest in Clothing, and Selected Clothing Practices for a Group of College Women in Korea", by Jin-Goo Kim. M.S. in Textiles and Clothing, University of Tennessee at Knoxville, 1970. viii, 76p.


KUROKAWA, Kumiko.  
    Jade Openwork Egret Finials: Their Historical Context and Use in China and Korea.  University of Glasgow [United Kingdom], 2004 (Ph.D. in History of Art).  Chairperson-Major Adviser: Nicholas Pearce.  xiii, 395, xi, 98, 61p.  No published abstract.  EThOS [British Library's Electronic Theses Online Service] Persistent ID: uk.bl.ethos.443381. A microfilm copy (and also a digitized copy) is available at the Center for Research Libraries in Chicago, Illinois (call number P-80021330).  
    Kurokawa, a daughter-in-law of the former chairman of Sanyo Electric Company, first investigated the two-volume work "Chuyôngp'yôn" by Chông Tong-yu (1744-1808) ("Juyeongpyeon" by Jeong Dong-yu) as an historical source for information about clothing, seasonal customs, food, and institutions, etc. during the Chosôn (Joseon) period (1392-1910). She then studied the "historical imagery and symbolism of egrets in China", discussed the "historical context of wearing hat ornaments throughout Chinese history", "analyzed the validity of identifying jade openwork finials as luding (incense burner covers) and the appropriateness for luding of their motifs and fundamental structure", and "explored the possibility of a changing usage based on the historical context of incense burners and the antiquarian culture of the late Ming literati". Finally, in chapter 7 (pages 263-325)-"Jade Hat Finials in Korea"-Kurokawa examined the relationship between Koryô (Goryeo) Korea (918-1392) and her Chinese neighbors (the Liao, Song, Jin, Yuan and Ming) and their "artistic and cultural exchanges", and utilized historical documents and surviving heirloom jade openwork and egret finials worn by government officials to explore their origin and use in Chosôn Korea.
    Table of Contents: 1. Introduction. 2. Investigation on Chuyôngp'yôn (Compilation in the Eternal Daytime) by Chông Tong-yu. 3. Historical Survey of Officials with the White Egret Symbol in China. 4. Hidden Symbols of Egrets in China. 5. Jade Hat Finials. 6. Jade Openwork Finials Mounted on Wooden Incense Burner Covers. 7. Jade Hat Finials in Korea. 8. Conclusion. 363 figures. 4 tables. Bibliography: pp.344-95. Illustrations: Volume 2, pages 1-98. Appendices [1-5]: Volume 2, pages 1-61.

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